Every time I think there won’t be any more troubles ahead, I
am proven wrong. Seems the United
States, a country I thought we would breeze through, enjoys throwing crap at
us. This time it was the wind we were
battling, although we did continue to endure extreme heat with consistent
temperatures over 40°C and regular
thunderstorms.
There were two particular occasions where the wind really
frightened me. The first happened
camping our last night in the Texan Panhandle.
Going into camp the weather was stable and there were no signs a massive
storm would be brewing in a couple of hours.
As the night grew on I noticed a lot of flashing in the distance but
thought nothing of it. Then later we heard
thunder and then raindrops. Then the
wind picked up. Next thing we know we
are in the middle of a severe storm with some of the strongest winds we have
ever experienced, so strong that both of us were sitting up in our tents trying
to hold everything together. My tent
pegs were blown off and my fly was flapping around like crazy. As usual my tent got flooded, but so did
Trevor’s for a change, except his later dried as a result of the strong winds
blowing through. I was very worried as
we were technically still in Tornado Alley and in a location where we were
vulnerable as there was no storm shelter around. I was seriously considering packing up shop
and getting out of there in the dark, severe storm and all. The wind was so bad that I ended up having to
move my tent with thunder, lightning and wind going ballistic all around me, to
another spot where there were some bushes to act as cover. I really hated doing this for obvious reasons
but also I was paranoid about any rattlesnakes I may step on. I don’t think they are a huge concern but I
did see a number of signs earlier in the day to watch out for them and any
other snakes slithering about. It was a
long night and I ended up finally getting some shut eye around 2 am when the
storm and fierce winds finally settled down.
The second incident was in New Mexico shortly after we
exited Albuquerque. The heat was on
pretty much all day long and I was roasting.
Then all of a sudden the weather did a complete 360 on us. Out from nowhere we were hit by an insane
dust storm. Never had both of us experienced
crosswinds so fierce. There were signs
leading up cautioning about dangerous crosswinds in the area. Tumbleweed and all things loose were flying
across the road at high speeds. Kind of
what you would see when a tornado hits.
Visibility was horrible and cycling in it was dangerous to say the
least. We needed to get out fast. As luck would have it I also had a flat in
the making. So things were not looking
great. We had to stop and remove
tumbleweed that got stuck in our wheels and drive chain. We battled the wind by leaning into it so we
wouldn’t get knocked over. Sometime
later we escaped the dust storm and were still in one piece. Relief.
I had the GoPro rolling in the thick of it and Trevor yelled at me to
turn it off as I would need both hands.
Rightfully so but later he would applaud my actions as the footage was kind
of cool.
Interstate 40 holds the honour for the worst stretch of road
to get flats on. And I don’t think it
will be beat. It is absolutely
unacceptable how much shredded tires and shard they have on the shoulder. We broke our daily record with 6 flats (4 for
me, 2 for Trevor). I was so frustrated
that I was thinking I should write a letter to the Department of Transportation. They should take after the Chinese and have
street cleaners. The tarmac is so hot
that it results in a lot of exploding tires.
We even saw a passing RV’s tire blow up.
The tire shredded and ended up on the shoulder as they all do waiting
for us to pass and puncture our tires.
We are thankfully off the I-40 now and have picked up 3 new tires: 2
Specialized Armadillo’s and 1 Schwalbe Marathon. Before I thought any tire could do in most
terrain but here in the US it appears you need top of the line tires to get
through.
In more positive news the scenery has really picked up. There was a complete terrain change when we
entered New Mexico as we started to really get that Wild West feel. New Mexico surprised me with all its barren
land. I learned that some many miles
south of Albuquerque is Trinity Site, where the testing of the first Atomic
Bomb back in 1945 occurred. Also 30
miles southeast of Truth or Consequences (yes, they called it that after this
popular TV show back in the 50’s) is Spaceport America, the first commercial
port for space flights. This is where
Virgin Galactic will take off whenever that happens. I would love to board one of those flights
someday.
Another thing that has continued besides the extreme weather
is the generosity of Americans. They are
really too kind and giving. In New
Mexico a lady outside the Tourist Information center gave us $20 after hearing about
our trip. Then later that day I was in a
supermarket in Tucumcari and 2 ladies gave me $10 each. Said they have great admiration for what we are
doing. Later in Arizona we met a couple
from Jacksonville, Florida who said we should try our hand at Survivor or the
Amazing Race, and then gave us $20. In
Flagstaff we went to a McDonald’s to burn some time and this man starts talking
with us about our trip. He is quite
impressed and then leaves to throw his garbage away. Trevor notices that he has a gun with
him. He then returns and sure enough I
see the gun in his holster. I begin to
freak out a bit as I always get nervous around guns. Then he takes out a stack of bills and says
he wants to make a contribution to our trip as he likes what we are doing and
wishes he had done something similar. He
then places a note with Benjamin Franklin on the table, shook both of our hands
and wished us all the best. Yes, you are
reading that correctly, $100. One minute
I am freaking out over the sight of a gun and the next minute I am shocked over
the very generous contribution. Super
nice guy. People just want to buy us
lunch or whatever. I kind of feel like I
am a D-list celebrity at times with all the people that approach and speak with
us, want to shake our hand or take pictures with or of us. It is a bit flattering.
We just passed through the Grand Canyon today and it is a
sight to see. With all the crazy weather
we have endured thus far, what will the US throw our way next?
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Meet Frederick, half wolf, half German Shepherd, but one
whole biter. Only 6 weeks old, I had to
watch where I step so I wouldn’t kick him over.
Funny little guy.
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Katie and I just outside her backdoor. We were former flatmates back in London in
2005. Good times. Huge thanks to her for letting us stay with
her a couple of days in Oklahoma City.
We watched a couple of movies, she introduced me to the television
program Arrested Development and I watched the NBA and NHL finals. She is quite the cook and fed us some
delicious grub. All in all, the makings
of a great couple of days.
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Riding the Mother Road.
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I had some bicycle troubles around Elk City, pretty much
halfway between Oklahoma City and Amarillo.
My bottom bracket seized thus preventing me from pedalling. Things looked pretty bad as I was going
nowhere. Luckily Trevor discovered the
bottom bracket just needed tightening.
This allowed us to barely make it to Amarillo where I got it replaced as
the bearings were shot. Had we been
screwed in Elk City we would have had to resort to taking the Greyhound back to
Oklahoma City and getting it fixed there.
Really sucks in developed countries like this that taking the bus costs
so much and they require you pack up your bike in a box. In developing countries you usually can just
throw your bike on and go many miles for very little, much like we did when we
had to cross the Rio Parana in Argentina.
But like I said, thankfully we didn’t have to go that route and hop on
the Greyhound.
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Trevor annoys me more often than I would like so I
ordered him to take a timeout in jail to think about how he pisses me off. It didn’t work.
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The challenge was set: to eat 72oz of steak and some side
dishes in under one hour. The prize: all
of it free. We both had been
contemplating whether we would tackle this challenge since we entered the US as
it is something we’ve always wanted to do.
That is, an eat it and it’s free contest. Unfortunately, that is a lot of food and
neither Trevor nor I wanted to stuff our faces and later feel sick just to get
a free meal. I know this may be a shock
to some people I used to work with as I had the reputation of eating anything
and everything put in front of me.
Anyway, we hung our heads low in defeat and cycled on.
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In response to that hit song that commanded the UK charts
back in 2005: this is the way to Amarillo.
And yes, that was another bad joke by yours truly that probably only
people who lived in the UK back in 2005 will get.
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Trevor getting his kicks on Route 66 by climbing
Cadillac’s at Cadillac Ranch.
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Picked up a very sturdy knife on the road side. It will provide a bit more piece of mind
later when we start camping with bears and wolves. Hopefully we won’t need to use it since Katie
kindly sent us off with some fabric softener sheets which apparently are a
deterrent to animals. Plus it makes my
tent and bags smell so fresh and so clean!
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Taking you back to the 50’s with Jayne Mansfield, Clark
Gable and Marilyn Monroe.
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We met Harrison in the New Mexican desert walking along
Interstate 40. Much respect to him as he
is walking from Florida to California, coast to coast. That is pretty hardcore.
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Leaving Albuquerque we saw this truck on fire. I spoke with the driver and he said it
overheated and just went up in flames.
The firefighters quickly extinguished the flames but the truck was
fried.
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This was taken just after we escaped those violent
crosswinds in New Mexico. As you can see
the sky looks quite gloomy in the background.
But we did end up going through a pretty nice rainbow, though we didn’t
see any pots of gold at the end of it.
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Passing the Continental Divide, probably will be doing
this a few more times.
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Enjoying the Wild West scenery.
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A donkey and some longhorns but this ain’t in
Texas.
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Meteor Crater. A
bit overpriced in my opinion but I am interested in all things to do with space
so this was kind of neat.
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I was about to pose for the camera in Flagstaff to model
my new and improved wear when a comical character jumped at the scene for a
photo op and then continued walking his dog.
Anyway, my shoes were dying much like Trevor’s but have been brought
back to life after Trevor glued them together in Oklahoma City. So far it is working fine. I picked up new shorts back in Louisiana
after the holes around my rear allowed for too much mooning. The new shorts I am currently wearing
unfortunately are very loose and as a result I have been probably showing off a
little too much in the front. That
problem was recently solved after Trevor found one of those straps you hook to
the back of your trunk to hold things in place.
Thankfully it is now holding my shorts in place as I use it as a belt and
so there will be no more full frontals. My
Vancouver jersey unfortunately couldn’t take me the rest of the way on its own
so I am wearing my Singapore jersey but still have my tattered Vancouver jersey
to cover my forearms from the sun. I
wanted to represent Vancouver all around the world thus my reluctance to toss
it. Though now I get to represent
Singapore as well, so it is a win win. As
for eye wear, Trevor continues to amass a collection of shades. That is one thing you probably do not need to
buy on a bike trip as there are so many lying on the side of the road. He is currently wearing some Oakley’s but has
picked up many others including brands like DKNY (designer!) along the way.
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This picture is for our mom. You have a town named after you just outside
of Flagstaff, Arizona. There is another
in Southern New Mexico but we didn’t pass through it. I also remember seeing one in South America
too. Your name is quite popular when it
comes to naming towns.
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Cycling through Grand Canyon National Park is quite
something. Both Trevor and I really
enjoyed it. Definitely would like to
return to do some justice to the trails on offer and possibly raft down the
Colorado River. It is an amazing
place.
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I am a cyclist and a professor at rutgers university and live in Philadelphia and love your blog. I have read every post of your whole trip. It's awesome! And watched every video. If you ever pedal through Philly, you definitely have a place to stay and some nice meals. Can't wait to read about you adventure's end! Good luck!
ReplyDeleteThanks! And glad you are enjoying the blog! Probably won't be pedaling through Philly on this trip but who knows what the future holds. The Appalachian Trail has been on my radar for a future adventure to come...
ReplyDelete