Breaking Down in the 'Stans

We had no problems at the Uzbek and Kazakh borders so that was relieving.  They were both quite painless.  Always was worried leaving Uzbekistan they may check those registration slips but they did not.  Phew!  There was a terrain change in Kazakhstan as we had rolling hills to contest with.  The temperatures are getting colder and Trevor is not liking that.  I worry about how cold it may get in China.  Also saw the awesome towering mountains in Kyrgyzstan to our right.  Pretty nice.  The roads were both very good and very bad.  Had some really bad tarmac but then all of a sudden it became really good.  I think the roads will only get better now so that is good. 

Must admit the first few days in Kazakhstan both Trevor and I were sore.  More so me though.  It was due to the long week off in Tashkent we had waiting for the Kazakh visas as we just sat around for the most part doing crap all.  I guess eating too many samsas and sweets didn’t really help the cause either.  I have become a fat cow.  So it was definitely nice getting back on the bikes and moving once again.

Unfortunately, some of our things are breaking down or have died.  Both our tents have only one zipper working and the second zippers seem like they are on their last heels.  I am of the thinking if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.  So until it dies, I will keep riding it until the end.  Giddy up.  Trevor’s mp3 player is also dying.  Sometimes it works, but other times it just decides to break down.  Trevor gets frustrated with it as he gets bored senseless riding if he doesn’t have an audiobook or podcast to listen to en route.  One of the most important devices though that we have had on this trip has died.  The GPS.  May it rest in peace.  Although I do think it is still salvageable and can be resurrected.  However, probably not here in Central Asia.  On a break somewhere between Shymkent and Taraz in Kazakhstan, Trevor zoomed in and the GPS just froze on him.  He tried very hard to get it going again by using his laptop but got nowhere.  In the evening he tried a few more things but ended up really killing it.  So he has accepted that it is kaput, as he put it.  As a result, we are discombobulated.  We have only navigated through two big cities since the GPS broke down being Taraz and Bishkek.  The former is not that big but I had to get off the bike a few times and confirm with locals how to get out.  The latter was kind of easy though as the road we took just went straight into the center of the city.  Anyway, it is vital we get another one as that device has really saved us a lot of time and hassle for obvious reasons.  Try getting through Tehran or Istanbul on a bicycle without one and you’ll know what I mean. 

We are now leaving Bishkek, a city both Trevor and I enjoyed.  Back to Kazakhstan we go to hopefully pick up a new (and improved!) GPS in Almaty.  Fingers crossed because we certainly will need it.

Nice terrain change. 

Trevor scarfing down a samsa in Shymkent.  Shortly before this Trevor successfully used something we both haven’t been able to use in some time… an ATM.  He was thrilled that our plastic cards are useable again.  Last time we could do that was in Turkey!

Cycling out of Shymkent a bus stopped beside me and the attendant handed me this flag.  At the time I didn’t know what flag it was but quickly assumed it had to be their national flag.  So here I am representing for all the Kazakhs. 

Taking in a beautiful Kazakh sunrise cycling down some crappy road.  

The moment the GPS passed away.  Trevor tried with all his might to revive it but just couldn’t get the job done.  He sincerely has missed it and has been depressed about its passing.  No joke.  That device had been a huge part of his life in the last half year.  He would go to sleep with it and constantly consulted it for information throughout the day.  It was tough for me too as it provided lots of helpful information which allowed me to make decisions much easier. 

We had only been in Kazakhstan for 4 days but one thing we noticed fairly early on is the people enjoy getting their photos taken.  I was snapping a few shots of Trevor in Taraz when this man approached him wanting to get in on the action.  Trevor said okay, but on one condition, that he let him wear his pimping hat.  The man obliged.  Trevor then explained to him he has aspirations of entering the rap game one day. 

As we neared Kyrgyzstan the scenery was superb.  To our right we constantly had the pleasure of looking at the Kyrgyz Alatau range.  All the while, many horses galloped about, or at least tried to.  Lots of them had their two front legs tied together so they couldn’t get very far.  These ones, however, could do as they pleased. 

Every so often Trevor reluctantly gets out his electronic shaver to have a shave.  He never likes doing it as it is a long, arduous job without any mirrors around.  As we neared Bishkek he decided it was time so he got the shaver out and did what he needed to do.  Unfortunately the battery died half way through and he was left with this hack job.  I think he had a Vladimir Lenin thing going on.  This shot was taken at the Ala-Too square in Bishkek and once we got to the Nomad Home shortly after, he finished what he had started.       

We have seen some Kyrgyz men sporting this hat.  Don’t think I will pick one up myself but I really like it.  

Trevor standing in front of a yurt and many tents at the Nomad Home in Bishkek.  So many other cyclists go here it seems as they allow travellers to set up tents in their yard.  Most of the cyclists and travellers here were waiting for a visa or two.  I had pondered doing a side trip to stay in a yurt and experience the nomadic life whilst in Kyrgyzstan but after peering into this one, I decided not to give that a miss.  Besides, as Trevor pointed out, we have been living the nomadic life for quite some time now.

The interior of the yurt.  Just some beds really inside a big, strong tent.  

Had a walk-a-bout around the Osh bazaar in Bishkek.  It was a lively, happening bazaar.  I liked it.  

We had to wait a good 5 days for our Chinese visas so we decided to hop off the bikes and jump on a minibus to Cholpon-Ata which lies on Lake Issyk-Kol.  Most of the day we spent in the minibus as one way was around 4 hours.  We only spent a few hours on the lake but I think that was enough.  Only a few people were basking in the sun and that was quite surprising given it is now October and getting much colder.  I took the liberty of jumping in the cold water and taking a quick dunk.  Mainly to wash my dirty clothes, not that it helps much.  It was refreshing but as you guessed it, quite cold.  Much like the Ogopogo monster of Okanagan Lake and Nessie of Loch Ness, this lake too is said to have a monster-like creature lurking under its waters.  The jekai.  I get a little paranoid about these things so I didn’t go in too deep.

Trevor pondered for days if he should go with me on the day trip to Lake Issyk-Kol as he is not a fan of sight-seeing.  I tried to sell him on the fact that this is the second largest alpine lake in the world next to Lake Titicaca.  That didn’t quite work as he really disliked going to Lake Titicaca earlier this year.  But in the end, he decided he would be bored senseless at the Nomad Home in his tent so he joined along.  Here he is on the deserted beach thinking about life.

YAY!  We have the Chinese visas.  No more visa crap to deal with for a long time to come.  Sweet deal and a major relief.  It wasn’t too difficult but that was because we had an agent get them for us as doing it on our own would have proved very tough.  It didn’t come cheap though… $150USD for a single entry 30 day visa.  Gotta do what you gotta do though to get where you want to go.  We will of course have to extend them in China but that shouldn’t be too difficult.