A Not So Warm Welcome Into China

It has been early days in China for us but the country is sure throwing a lot of shots at us.  Not liking that one bit.  Our first day in we were excited to have entered the dragon but right off the bat we had an unforgiving mountain pass at around 2200m to climb.  We started climbing later in the day and as we ascended up the mountain it started snowing and the conditions were obviously not for cycling.  Had to be very careful as there was lots of black ice and slippery surfaces.  A few semi-trucks got stuck and there were forces out trying to get things cleared again.  It was a big mess.  I didn’t plan on it, but we ended up having to camp at around 2100m in the cold, snowy environment.  I thank my lucky stars though as we stopped atop a tunnel bridge and I ripped the fence open and we camped in the tunnel.  It was too cold and everything was freezing.  It was so cold that we both got in one tent for body warmth.  It was a very rough night but the next morning the sun came out surprisingly and the descent was way better than the ascent.  There wasn’t any snow or ice going down.  We met a few French cyclists going up as we were going down and they looked like they didn’t know what they were getting into.

We thought that was the last of the snow as the next week and a half we had clear skies in the never-ending desert with no signs of any precipitation.  Amazing how one night can change things so drastically, or actually a few hours.  Just last night we stopped and camped again in a tunnel bridge (that is the norm in the desert I think for many cyclists) and there was no indication of any precipitation whatsoever, let alone snow.  When we woke up this morning there was a blanket of snow on the ground and it was still going strong.  The conditions were horrendous.  Again, not for cycling and stupid to cycle in if you ask me.  That said, we were still a good 50km away from the next town so we needed to make a move to get there.  Once again we had to be extremely careful as the roads were icy and covered in snow and slush.  Trevor fell off his bikes numerous times and had to take it real slow.  We eventually got to Yumen in one piece thankfully, but the fun didn’t stop there.  Oh no.  That would have been too easy.  Exhausted we found a hotel early upon entering and after some looking around to see if there was anything better we settled on this particular hotel as they seemed to accept us foreigners.  We paid the money, unpacked and were settling in when the lady knocks on our door and asks me to go down.  With the help of others they all manage to explain to me that we aren’t allowed there and have to leave.  Basically they said the government and/or police wants us to stay at this particular hotel in town and only that one because it is big and safe.  The one we were at was not so.  To me, the hotel was fine, even better than what I am used to.  I actually don’t want all the stuff they have and just want the cheapest of the cheap.  After repacking all our gear we were led to this new hotel by this kind man and the lady and after some hardcore negotiating I got the same price we were paying at the first hotel.  The room looked exactly the same.  Only difference was the new hotel was on the outskirts of Yumen, so away from all the food shops.  Just great.  So I was quite pissed about the whole move and everything that went down. 

I am still very worried about the weather and road conditions ahead.  Hopeful that the sun will shine bright tomorrow and melt all the evil doing snow and ice away so we can get cycling again in a safe manner.  

The Chinese can be extremely aggressive when it comes to trying to rip me off royally.  Upon entering China I was swarmed by money changers and I asked how much to exchange Kazakh tenge.  They were quoting me over half what I should be getting so told them to piss off and let me be.  This one asshole in the dark blue fleece wouldn’t let me go and kept holding me back.  I mouthed off at him but I am sure he had no clue what I was saying.  Nice at times to be able to vent and mouth off at another even though they haven’t a clue what I am saying.  But I think they got the gist I was pissed at them.  And rightfully so. 

Getting involved in China.  Our first rest stop we ordered up some hot noodles.  Much needed for the unexpected cold weather ahead. 

Trevor almost taking a tumble going up the mountain pass on our first day in China.  

This tunnel was seriously a lifesaver.  I don’t want to even think about what could have happened if we were exposed to the elements in the night at 2100m above sea level. 

Being high up makes for nice scenery though.  Well when the weather is nice that is.  And it was the next morning.  

You can tell when Trevor has a sincere smile and here is one of those times.  He is happy here because this was the highest point we would reach latitude wise in Asia.  As such, it should get only warmer as we are heading south from there on out. 

Pollution galore China.  Definitely not a city I would want to live in with Power Plants situated in city limits.  Speaking of Chinese cities, we have passed a few what appears to be ready to live in cities that are completely empty.  Seems like China likes to build structures ready for use but then lets them sit there unused.  We have also passed grand exhibition centers that clearly haven’t been used at all.  Someone probably has a vision but it seems like they are throwing a lot of investment just for the sake of employing people even though they don’t need it at the moment.  Just a thought. 

Leaving polluted Shihezi I spotted this group of school children doing this synchronized gym routine.  Pretty neat to watch. 

When I first backpacked through China I discovered a milk I really liked in Xian.  I was told it was called Jujube milk.  I loved it so much I searched far and wide in China and the world to see if I could find it again.  I never did see it again and gave up on my worldwide search for this delicious milk.  Things changed though when we made it to Urumqi.  In Carrefour, the great French supermarket that it is, I found it again.  I was thrilled to down this red jujube milk yet again.  I think it is really just red date milk.  I need to see if I can find this back home because I really, really like it.  Just as a head’s up, there will be a few more of my food/drink findings along the way.  Discoveries like this make me happy.  I look forward to a few more treats in countries to come that I have always enjoyed. 

After spending the night at the Youth Hostel in Urumqi we scoured the city for bicycle shops as we were in need of a few spare parts and Trevor was in the market for a few spare tires as both of his look like they are on their last heels.  He found some cheap ones and here this man is telling him how to pack them on his bike.  Trevor took his advice.  In other news all things bicycle, we or maybe I should say Trevor specifically broke all our 3 bicycle pumps.  He has had many tire problems with annoying flats and as a result has worked all the bike pumps to oblivion.  So I just picked up another pump here in Yumen, albeit a very big one, hoping he doesn’t break that one.  If so, we will have some problems.  

Here I am at what probably will be our literally lowest point on the trip (about 50m below sea level).  This is around the Turpan basin which is 154m below sea level making it the second lowest point on Earth behind the Dead Sea. 

Not liking the water situation in China.  Water is much more expensive here than it was in Central Asia.  Ideally I like water to cost nothing.  And think it should be that way everywhere.  In this particular town I found an 18.9L jug and the guy gave it to me for very cheap provided I return the jug after.  Done deal.  So here I am pouring liters upon liters of water into our many water bottles. 

Lots of desert in the Xinjiang province.  And where there is desert, there are camels.  We saw many of them too. 

Our shelter most nights in the desert.  Protects us from the annoying wind and whatever else the weather gods like to throw at us in the night but the downside is there are vehicles zooming right above us so getting a good night’s rest is a bit difficult.

The start of a very crappy day cycling in the snow today.  One of those days you ask yourself what the fudge am I doing out here?  Seriously… this is stupid.  And I am stupid for being out here.  I am also quite stupid for tearing my jacket a few nights prior while bending down to get under a barbed wire.  As a result, I have a big tear in my yellow rain jacket and to be honest, it isn’t getting any smaller and I don’t know what to do about it.  I tried taping it.  That failed.  Just tried gluing it.  That failed as well. 

Passed this van en route today.  Don’t worry no one was hurt.  The cops later arrived and a few of them approached Trevor to tell him to get off the road and use the side road.  When they realized there wasn’t a way to get to the side road they told him to just stay close to the right barricade.  Easier said than done.