Friday, July 5, 2013

Getting Kicked on Route 66

Every time I think there won’t be any more troubles ahead, I am proven wrong.  Seems the United States, a country I thought we would breeze through, enjoys throwing crap at us.  This time it was the wind we were battling, although we did continue to endure extreme heat with consistent temperatures over 40°C and regular thunderstorms. 

There were two particular occasions where the wind really frightened me.  The first happened camping our last night in the Texan Panhandle.  Going into camp the weather was stable and there were no signs a massive storm would be brewing in a couple of hours.  As the night grew on I noticed a lot of flashing in the distance but thought nothing of it.  Then later we heard thunder and then raindrops.  Then the wind picked up.  Next thing we know we are in the middle of a severe storm with some of the strongest winds we have ever experienced, so strong that both of us were sitting up in our tents trying to hold everything together.  My tent pegs were blown off and my fly was flapping around like crazy.  As usual my tent got flooded, but so did Trevor’s for a change, except his later dried as a result of the strong winds blowing through.  I was very worried as we were technically still in Tornado Alley and in a location where we were vulnerable as there was no storm shelter around.  I was seriously considering packing up shop and getting out of there in the dark, severe storm and all.  The wind was so bad that I ended up having to move my tent with thunder, lightning and wind going ballistic all around me, to another spot where there were some bushes to act as cover.  I really hated doing this for obvious reasons but also I was paranoid about any rattlesnakes I may step on.  I don’t think they are a huge concern but I did see a number of signs earlier in the day to watch out for them and any other snakes slithering about.  It was a long night and I ended up finally getting some shut eye around 2 am when the storm and fierce winds finally settled down.    

The second incident was in New Mexico shortly after we exited Albuquerque.  The heat was on pretty much all day long and I was roasting.  Then all of a sudden the weather did a complete 360 on us.  Out from nowhere we were hit by an insane dust storm.  Never had both of us experienced crosswinds so fierce.  There were signs leading up cautioning about dangerous crosswinds in the area.  Tumbleweed and all things loose were flying across the road at high speeds.  Kind of what you would see when a tornado hits.  Visibility was horrible and cycling in it was dangerous to say the least.  We needed to get out fast.  As luck would have it I also had a flat in the making.  So things were not looking great.  We had to stop and remove tumbleweed that got stuck in our wheels and drive chain.  We battled the wind by leaning into it so we wouldn’t get knocked over.  Sometime later we escaped the dust storm and were still in one piece.  Relief.  I had the GoPro rolling in the thick of it and Trevor yelled at me to turn it off as I would need both hands.  Rightfully so but later he would applaud my actions as the footage was kind of cool. 

Interstate 40 holds the honour for the worst stretch of road to get flats on.  And I don’t think it will be beat.  It is absolutely unacceptable how much shredded tires and shard they have on the shoulder.  We broke our daily record with 6 flats (4 for me, 2 for Trevor).  I was so frustrated that I was thinking I should write a letter to the Department of Transportation.  They should take after the Chinese and have street cleaners.  The tarmac is so hot that it results in a lot of exploding tires.  We even saw a passing RV’s tire blow up.  The tire shredded and ended up on the shoulder as they all do waiting for us to pass and puncture our tires.  We are thankfully off the I-40 now and have picked up 3 new tires: 2 Specialized Armadillo’s and 1 Schwalbe Marathon.  Before I thought any tire could do in most terrain but here in the US it appears you need top of the line tires to get through.      

In more positive news the scenery has really picked up.  There was a complete terrain change when we entered New Mexico as we started to really get that Wild West feel.  New Mexico surprised me with all its barren land.  I learned that some many miles south of Albuquerque is Trinity Site, where the testing of the first Atomic Bomb back in 1945 occurred.  Also 30 miles southeast of Truth or Consequences (yes, they called it that after this popular TV show back in the 50’s) is Spaceport America, the first commercial port for space flights.  This is where Virgin Galactic will take off whenever that happens.  I would love to board one of those flights someday.

Another thing that has continued besides the extreme weather is the generosity of Americans.  They are really too kind and giving.  In New Mexico a lady outside the Tourist Information center gave us $20 after hearing about our trip.  Then later that day I was in a supermarket in Tucumcari and 2 ladies gave me $10 each.  Said they have great admiration for what we are doing.  Later in Arizona we met a couple from Jacksonville, Florida who said we should try our hand at Survivor or the Amazing Race, and then gave us $20.  In Flagstaff we went to a McDonald’s to burn some time and this man starts talking with us about our trip.  He is quite impressed and then leaves to throw his garbage away.  Trevor notices that he has a gun with him.  He then returns and sure enough I see the gun in his holster.  I begin to freak out a bit as I always get nervous around guns.  Then he takes out a stack of bills and says he wants to make a contribution to our trip as he likes what we are doing and wishes he had done something similar.  He then places a note with Benjamin Franklin on the table, shook both of our hands and wished us all the best.  Yes, you are reading that correctly, $100.  One minute I am freaking out over the sight of a gun and the next minute I am shocked over the very generous contribution.  Super nice guy.  People just want to buy us lunch or whatever.  I kind of feel like I am a D-list celebrity at times with all the people that approach and speak with us, want to shake our hand or take pictures with or of us.  It is a bit flattering.       
   
We just passed through the Grand Canyon today and it is a sight to see.  With all the crazy weather we have endured thus far, what will the US throw our way next?


Meet Frederick, half wolf, half German Shepherd, but one whole biter.  Only 6 weeks old, I had to watch where I step so I wouldn’t kick him over.  Funny little guy. 


Katie and I just outside her backdoor.  We were former flatmates back in London in 2005.  Good times.  Huge thanks to her for letting us stay with her a couple of days in Oklahoma City.  We watched a couple of movies, she introduced me to the television program Arrested Development and I watched the NBA and NHL finals.  She is quite the cook and fed us some delicious grub.  All in all, the makings of a great couple of days. 


Riding the Mother Road.

I had some bicycle troubles around Elk City, pretty much halfway between Oklahoma City and Amarillo.  My bottom bracket seized thus preventing me from pedalling.  Things looked pretty bad as I was going nowhere.  Luckily Trevor discovered the bottom bracket just needed tightening.  This allowed us to barely make it to Amarillo where I got it replaced as the bearings were shot.  Had we been screwed in Elk City we would have had to resort to taking the Greyhound back to Oklahoma City and getting it fixed there.  Really sucks in developed countries like this that taking the bus costs so much and they require you pack up your bike in a box.  In developing countries you usually can just throw your bike on and go many miles for very little, much like we did when we had to cross the Rio Parana in Argentina.  But like I said, thankfully we didn’t have to go that route and hop on the Greyhound.   


Trevor annoys me more often than I would like so I ordered him to take a timeout in jail to think about how he pisses me off.  It didn’t work.    

The challenge was set: to eat 72oz of steak and some side dishes in under one hour.  The prize: all of it free.  We both had been contemplating whether we would tackle this challenge since we entered the US as it is something we’ve always wanted to do.  That is, an eat it and it’s free contest.  Unfortunately, that is a lot of food and neither Trevor nor I wanted to stuff our faces and later feel sick just to get a free meal.  I know this may be a shock to some people I used to work with as I had the reputation of eating anything and everything put in front of me.  Anyway, we hung our heads low in defeat and cycled on. 


In response to that hit song that commanded the UK charts back in 2005: this is the way to Amarillo.  And yes, that was another bad joke by yours truly that probably only people who lived in the UK back in 2005 will get. 


Trevor getting his kicks on Route 66 by climbing Cadillac’s at Cadillac Ranch.  

Picked up a very sturdy knife on the road side.  It will provide a bit more piece of mind later when we start camping with bears and wolves.  Hopefully we won’t need to use it since Katie kindly sent us off with some fabric softener sheets which apparently are a deterrent to animals.  Plus it makes my tent and bags smell so fresh and so clean!   


Taking you back to the 50’s with Jayne Mansfield, Clark Gable and Marilyn Monroe.  

We met Harrison in the New Mexican desert walking along Interstate 40.  Much respect to him as he is walking from Florida to California, coast to coast.  That is pretty hardcore. 


Leaving Albuquerque we saw this truck on fire.  I spoke with the driver and he said it overheated and just went up in flames.  The firefighters quickly extinguished the flames but the truck was fried. 


This was taken just after we escaped those violent crosswinds in New Mexico.  As you can see the sky looks quite gloomy in the background.  But we did end up going through a pretty nice rainbow, though we didn’t see any pots of gold at the end of it. 


Passing the Continental Divide, probably will be doing this a few more times.

Enjoying the Wild West scenery. 


A donkey and some longhorns but this ain’t in Texas. 


Meteor Crater.  A bit overpriced in my opinion but I am interested in all things to do with space so this was kind of neat. 


I was about to pose for the camera in Flagstaff to model my new and improved wear when a comical character jumped at the scene for a photo op and then continued walking his dog.  Anyway, my shoes were dying much like Trevor’s but have been brought back to life after Trevor glued them together in Oklahoma City.  So far it is working fine.  I picked up new shorts back in Louisiana after the holes around my rear allowed for too much mooning.  The new shorts I am currently wearing unfortunately are very loose and as a result I have been probably showing off a little too much in the front.  That problem was recently solved after Trevor found one of those straps you hook to the back of your trunk to hold things in place.  Thankfully it is now holding my shorts in place as I use it as a belt and so there will be no more full frontals.  My Vancouver jersey unfortunately couldn’t take me the rest of the way on its own so I am wearing my Singapore jersey but still have my tattered Vancouver jersey to cover my forearms from the sun.  I wanted to represent Vancouver all around the world thus my reluctance to toss it.  Though now I get to represent Singapore as well, so it is a win win.  As for eye wear, Trevor continues to amass a collection of shades.  That is one thing you probably do not need to buy on a bike trip as there are so many lying on the side of the road.  He is currently wearing some Oakley’s but has picked up many others including brands like DKNY (designer!) along the way. 


This picture is for our mom.  You have a town named after you just outside of Flagstaff, Arizona.  There is another in Southern New Mexico but we didn’t pass through it.  I also remember seeing one in South America too.  Your name is quite popular when it comes to naming towns.      

Cycling through Grand Canyon National Park is quite something.  Both Trevor and I really enjoyed it.  Definitely would like to return to do some justice to the trails on offer and possibly raft down the Colorado River.  It is an amazing place. 


2 comments:

  1. I am a cyclist and a professor at rutgers university and live in Philadelphia and love your blog. I have read every post of your whole trip. It's awesome! And watched every video. If you ever pedal through Philly, you definitely have a place to stay and some nice meals. Can't wait to read about you adventure's end! Good luck!

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  2. Thanks! And glad you are enjoying the blog! Probably won't be pedaling through Philly on this trip but who knows what the future holds. The Appalachian Trail has been on my radar for a future adventure to come...

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